When I initially came to Monemvasia, I couldn’t see why everyone was so excited about it. Gefira, where you can approach this place from, is a charming seaside village with cozy cafes, a pebbly beach, a sheltered windless little harbour; there were plenty of tavernas with blue-and-white checkered tablecloths and wicker chairs, and a peninsula towering before the little town. It was lovely, but I pondered to myself, wondering what made it so special.
The name of this quaint settlement (Gefira) translates to ‘bridge’ in Greek. Indeed, a peninsula that resembles a rough rock can be reached via a lengthy stone bridge. As I crossed the street, I could see the infinite blue of the sea to the right and a busy parking lot, a hotel resembling a castle, and a restaurant to the left. The sound of the waves licking the rocks completed the atmosphere. I gazed up at the rocks: they seemed unsurmountable as they towered over us, commanding respect. It seemed as if I could also glimpse the remains of an acropolis.
As the road widened, a gate reminiscent of a medieval castle appeared before us. We passed through a narrow tunnel, where a bag of clean linens and a few vegetable crates sat on stone benches on the left. It felt like we had stepped back in time: a winding cobblestone road led to the medieval town. As its name—”single entrance”— suggests Monemvasia has provided protection for its inhabitants since the 6th century. The settlement is completely invisible from the mainland. At the time of the fortress’s founding, it could only be approached by boat. A wooden bridge later connected it to the mainland. The stone bridge, which we can comfortably walk across today, was built in 1971.
The fortress – known as Gibraltar of the East – was founded during the Byzantine Empire, but due to its strategic importance, it was frequently used by other military powers: it was owned by the Crusader knights, then later by the Venetians and the Turks. One might spend hours exploring its mediaeval stone homes, Byzantine churches, and castle remains. As we climbed higher, a stunning picture of the sea and the terracotta-coloured rooftops came into view.
Monemvasia has its own winery because there are vineyards nearby. Personally, I enjoy learning about and tasting the regional wines, desserts, and specialities. I soon discovered the ideal little store for this, called the “Cellar” (Kelari in Greek). Here you can purchase local honey, the regionally renowned Malvasia wine, homemade olive oil, and the distinctive almond-based dessert known as “Amigdalota.” Of course, one might taste each of these as well. It was merely the fact that I had no more space in my suitcase, saving me from shopping. However, this is a good excuse to revisit this wonderful town soon.
Among the restaurants, I chose the Matoula Tavern for its view of the sea and sunset. In peak season, you need to arrive early (around 7 pm) as it is a very popular restaurant; by the time we finished with the appetizers, there was already a long queue at the entrance. The food was just as excellent as the picturesque scenery. Unsurprisingly, I also tasted the house wine, the ‘matoula’. It paired beautifully with the freshly grilled sea bass I had and was a crisp, flavourful white wine.
The early morning is the ideal time to explore the town because it is not too hot and there aren’t many tourists. It is worth spending at least two hours on this walk, and you definitely need a good hiking shoe or a pair of sneakers that don’t slip. The narrow, pebbled streets are not paved, as they have remained in all their medieval glory, and they can be very slippery, especially when going downhill. If you want to go all the way up to the ruins of the acropolis, it is worth dedicating an entire morning to this tour.
A superb ice cream or an iced coffee is particularly refreshing when you return to town in the increasingly intense sunshine. Galera Gelato Artigianale, which offers delicious, homemade ice cream, is certainly a great choice. I would also recommend the ENETIKO café’s rooftop patio for coffee.
Every travel agency’s brochure is filled with the slogan that Greece is full of hidden, undiscovered gems. Well, given its lone entrance and complete lack of visibility from Gefira, Monemvasia is undoubtedly a well-hidden town. When I recall the times I spent there, the shades of the sunset, the sound of the waves, and the genuinely historical feel of the city, this place definitely defines the word “treasure” in my vocabulary.
