Mount Athos, the state within a state, also known as “The Garden of the Virgin Mary”, is the monastic state of the Holy Mountain. It lies on the easternmost part of the three-legged Halkidiki peninsula, and it is the second most important place of pilgrimage (after Jerusalem) for the Orthodox Christians worldwide.
A legal peculiarity
Mount Athos, just like Greece, is part of the European Union. Nonetheless, the monastic state has its own special jurisdiction, which was reaffirmed when Greece joined the EU. It can regulate the free movements of people and goods within its territory. Therefore, even in the 21st century, only men can enter the lands of the Holy Mountain. As women are not allowed, they can only experience Mount Athos through a boat tour around the perimeter. To enter the Monastic Republic, men must apply for a permit. Permits are issued daily for 10 non-orthodox and 100 orthodox visitors. They are only valid for 4 days but can be extended.
Visiting the Holy Mountain
There are 20 monasteries on the peninsula, all functioning as religious communities. Smaller formations, like cells and hermitages – where small groups or lone hermits live – can also be found in the mountains. Only forest trails and paths connect these religious communities.
Pilgrims and explorers (again, only men) are welcome in the monasteries, but they must follow the monks’ schedule, respect the religious duties, and join in if there is fasting or a meat-and-dairy-free day. Visitors can also assist the monks in their daily tasks, like gardening, cooking, and cleaning, as well as wine and honey making.
Astonishingly diverse nature
One can also worship in nature and wander around the paths linking the monasteries, admiring the incredibly beautiful flora and fauna. Since a large percentage of the mountain’s surface is untouched, there are many animal species residing in the area: jackals, red foxes, grey wolves, and weasels, just to name a few. Even the aptly named monk seals can be found on the surrounding coastline. For the same reason, it is also an outstanding place for birdwatching. Since the Holy Mountain combines elements of continental and Mediterranean climates, its flora is also amazingly diverse.
The power of the Greek hymn – my personal experience
While exploring the Pelion peninsula, we stopped at a fountain to fill up our water bottles. An elderly man, with a large moustache and a broad smile, greeted me in Greek and asked whether I’d like to buy some honey from him. I told him that unfortunately I do not have enough space in my suitcase for honey. He was impressed that I spoke Greek, and we started to chat. He asked me if I knew the Greek alphabet, and when I said yes, with pride in his eyes, he took out an old book, written in Greek, and explained to me that it is a songbook containing Byzantine hymns. He explained that he spent a year on the Holy Mountain and learnt to sing there. I looked at the book, and I couldn’t believe it; it was at least a hundred years old and beautifully written. This book should have been in a museum!
He opened it and started to sing. First, he sang slowly, articulating the words clearly while he was showing me in the book where he was at. He smiled, his eyes sparkling, and he continued singing with great enthusiasm. I couldn’t understand the text, but tears welled in my eyes. His voice, the old book, and the fresh spring water in my hand – it all felt like a dream. I had goosebumps. I felt the song echoing in my chest, my heart filled with joy, and a tear rolled down my cheek. We did not know each other and had only enjoyed a five-minute conversation, but it felt as if we were deeply connected. The song ended, and I had to go. I thanked him; he wished me a good day and safe travels (I adore that the Greek language is always full of good wishes).
Women, who, despite the strict regulations, have visited Mount Athos
As a woman, I am not allowed to visit Mount Athos, so I can only imagine how magical it could be to hear the genuine Byzantine hymns sung by the monks as the sun rises, every word coming from the heart, honouring their religion. It must be celestial to listen to it.
Even though I would not be able to listen to this divine music, there were a dozen women who were brave enough to disguise themselves and visit the holy mountain.
According to the legend, the daughter of Theodosius, the Byzantine Emperor, visited this holy land in 422. At that time, there were no restrictions in place, because the first monastery was only established in the 10th century. Princess Galla Placidia came here to honour the holy places. As she approached one of the churches, she heard the Virgin Mary’s voice command her to leave instantly and declare that only men are allowed on the holy land. It is believed that the prohibition of visits by women existed from that moment. In my opinion, it is more likely to be a man-made rule, as refusing admission to women is the easiest way to enforce celibacy amongst the monks.
For a period, the restriction even applied to female animals. This quite impractical rule was lifted later so that the monks wouldn’t have to obtain their eggs and other food from outside.
Another noblewoman was allowed on Mount Athos in 1347. During the plague outbreak in Serbia, the Serbian king and his wife, Elena, took refuge in the Hilandar Monastery. This monastery had been granted by Alexios III to the Serbian prince and his son, who later became Saint Simeon and Saint Sava. At that time, because of the Byzantine Civil War, the whole of Mount Athos was under Serbian authority. The Hilandar Monastery is the only non-Greek monastery on the Holy Mountain.
Mara Brankovich – also a Serbian princess and the wife of the Ottoman sultan Murad II – came to the Monastery of Saint Paul to deliver relics from Jerusalem (the gifts brought by the Three Kings to the newborn Jesus). As she entered the monastery, she heard an angel’s voice, asking her to stop and go no further. She fell to her knees in remorse. The monks took the gifts and erected a cross and a chapel at the exact place where she collapsed. That is the legend, but it is true that Mara supported the Orthodox Church and granted special privileges to the Orthodox Greek Christians of Jerusalem.
In challenging times, even on the holy mountain, the restrictions have been breached. In 1770, during the Orlov uprising against the Ottomans, hundreds of people – including women and children – sought refuge here. Similarly, in 1821, at the time of the Greek revolution against the Turks, many refugees fled to the mountains. At the end of the Second World War, the monks rescued and sheltered many Allied troops, who were left behind. In 1944, a group of women asked for asylum at the Esfigmenou Monastery, fleeing from the German prosecution.
During the Greek Civil War, a group of the Democratic Army of Greece entered the Athonite Republic, including a teenage girl, Eugenia, who felt so guilty for breaking into the holy land that she did not dare to go into the monastery with her comrades and just waited outside with her gun in her hand.
Even during peacetime, the violations continued. One of the most famous incidents happened in 1930, when the 18-year-old winner of the Miss Europe beauty contest, Aliki Diplarakou, dressed as a man, entered the Holy Mountain. She arrived by boat and toured the monasteries without saying a word or asking any questions. Despite her disguise, she made headlines all over the world. There was a rumour that soon after her visit, Aliki became seriously ill and went to Switzerland for treatments. She did not fully recover until she apologised in writing to the monks, donated a large amount of money and asked the friars to pray for her. Her apology was accepted; she regained her health and only died at the age of 90.
At the same time, a French journalist, Maryse Choisy, published a book about her experience of spending a whole month among the monks at Mount Athos, disguised as a seafarer. We still do not know whether she had been there or just used her vivid imagination to write her book.
The visit of another Greek lady, Maria Pimenidou, triggered a new jurisdiction: a law that barred women from accessing the holy mountain came into force. Trespassers were not only punishable by 2- to 12-month imprisonment but also brought upon themselves the wrath of God.
In 1953, Cora Miller, an American Fulbright Program teacher, also entered the holy land along with two other women, stirring up a controversy among the monks.
In the seventies, French philologist Jacqueline Michele and the Italians Luisa Barbarito and Maria Pastrella also attempted to visit the holy mountain.
One of the most recent women to break the rule and enter Mount Athos was a Greek journalist named Malvina Karali, who reportedly went into the sanctuary disguised as a man in the 1990s.
In 2008, five Moldovan citizens came illegally to Greece via Turkey and ended up on Mount Athos; four of the migrants were women. The monks forgave them and informed them that the region was off limits to women.
How can we women still learn about Mount Athos?
Firstly, online tours to different locations on Mount Athos are available on the Internet. I also found good documentaries on YouTube.
Athonite monks often take relics of the Holy Mountains to the public on boats. They also offer a special ceremony, the Service of Supplication (Moleben), to the pilgrims. The different prayers ask the Lord for guidance, personal strength, and healing.
In the surrounding villages, some elders are happy to talk to visitors about the monasteries and their personal experiences.
At the peak of the tourist season, boat tours from Ouranoupolis are running day cruises around the peninsula.
Even though it is truly peculiar to have a place in Europe where women are forbidden to enter, I believe that it is important to respect the centuries-old traditions that surround Mount Athos.
