Hidden on the eastern side of the Sporades archipelago, with a territory of less than 130 km² and around 3000 inhabitants, the beautiful little island offers untouched beaches, a unique landscape, amazing fresh seafood, local honey, and hiking trails leading to secluded seashores—everything needed for a relaxing holiday.
Diving
Alonissos has the oldest marine park in Europe, established in 1992. It is also the largest in the Mediterranean Sea, covering 2260 km², as well as including 7 islands and 22 islets. The park is divided into three zones: The centre of the park is Piperi Island, and its surrounding areas have the highest level of protection because it is where the endangered monk seals live.
Alonissos has a very healthy marine ecosystem; its diving spots offer a lot to see for scuba divers at all levels. Although it is worth mentioning that to dive around the shipwrecks, one needs to be an advanced open-water diver, as they are quite deep.
Greece banned scuba diving until 2004 due to worries that the ancient artefacts lying underwater would be robbed, but now the country is embracing its rich underwater heritage and shipwrecks can be visited. The Peristera shipwreck from 450 BC—the oldest accessible wreck, with thousands of amphorae—lies between 19 and 28 m. The findings are labelled, and signs guide the divers through the route (like in a museum.) The site can only be visited by advanced open-water divers and with an approved dive centre. However, some other popular dive sites include:
The Blue Cave, a large open-sea cavern, is an excellent place to start. It offers scenic views at almost every stop and rich and interesting marine fauna.
The Gorgonian Garden is one of the rare, authorised diving sites where magnificent red and yellow gorgonians can be seen. To dive here, you need to be a certified deep diver.
The Agios Georgios reef site, made of two large pinnacles, is around 20 m deep but requires perfect buoyancy control because of the currents, so it is not recommended for beginners.
History and a little bit of etymology of Alonissos
Ikos was the ancient name of the island, whereas the word ‘Alonissos’ was traditionally used to refer to the adjacent islets. In the 1830s, after Greece gained independence from the Ottoman Empire, modern cartographers and authorities revived classical names. They mistakenly assigned the ancient name Alonissos to the island, and the name stuck despite the geographical mix-up. The name Alonissos (Greek: Αλόννησος) comes from the ancient Greek words áls (άλς, meaning “salt” or “sea”) and nēsos (νήσος, meaning “island”), translating literally to “salt island” or “island of the sea”.
Hora/Alonissos
The old town of Alonissos (Hora) was abandoned after the earthquake of 1965. Most of its inhabitants moved to the nearby Patitiri instead of moving back to the ruined capital. From the 80s, the traditional old houses were refurbished, the cobbled alleys restored, and nowadays the Hora is the main tourist attraction of the island. It is a picturesque place, even when its taverns and cafes are crowded with both locals and tourists. I truly enjoyed exploring the tiny colourful shops, strolling amongst the old houses, and trying some Greek honey followed by delicious gyros. At one corner, an elderly lady was playing the violin, which sounded like traditional Greek music. She greeted us with a big smile as we approached her, admiring the view as the setting sun painted the traditional houses gold.
The best way to reach the old town is to take the footpath from the port of Patitiri. It is also the most scenic route: the view of Evia, the surrounding islands in the sea behind us, and the green landscape of Alonissos in front of us. Well worth the effort, and it is only around 2 km long, a good 40-minute walk.
Beaches
Along the coastline, there are many splendid beaches in close proximity to each other that make it possible to visit several of them in a single day and have a quick dip whenever the sea calls. Just like the landscape, the beaches are also very diverse. Some of these beaches include Kokkinokastro, which is encompassed by red rocks; Hrisi Milia, which has golden sand; and, as the name suggests, Leftos Gialos, which has a white pebbled shore.
Eating
Agriculture is prevalent on Alonissos. The main products are honey, grapes, wine, figs, olives and almonds. The old town’s restaurants are great, and I would recommend them, but to truly enjoy the best fresh and local ingredients of the island, I would head to the smaller tavernas alongside the coast. If you go in the evening, book your table in advance, as they tend to get very busy, even on weekdays.
In Steni Vala, we wanted to go to Tassia’s Cooking restaurant, as it had very good reviews, but it was fully booked. We ended up in the Sossinola taverna, and we did not regret it for a moment. The staff was attentive and fast, the house wine was first class, and all the plates we ordered were super delicious. The grilled octopus was scrumptious, one of the best I’ve ever had.
Kalamakia also has a great choice of tavernas. We went for Taverna Maina, and luckily, we got a table. We chose our sea bream from their freezer—freshly caught by their own fishing boat that very morning. While waiting for our food, I admired the large, nicely decorated pots filled with basil, lavender, and other aromatic herbs all around the restaurant. They also have their own garden where they get their fresh vegetables for their dishes. The fish was excellent, but so were all the mezedes (appetisers) and salads we ordered. A true culinary delight!
Overall, this small island of the Sporades is perfect for a relaxing holiday. While listening to the sound of the waves at the stunning small beaches or exploring the hiking routes that offer spectacular views all over the island and the sea, I can sense the presence of Gaia; Mother Earth surrounds us here, and thus I am ever so grateful.
